Philadelphia!

Thirty years after our last visit to the City of Brotherly Love, we returned for an art visit to the new Barnes Foundation building and the much older Philadelphia Museum of Art and Pennsvylvania Academy of the Fine Arts (PAFA). As much as we enjoyed those jewels, we also loved the setting: Philadelphia seemed clean, […]

The Louvre

The Louvre A more-or-less forced march of four hours let me survey most, but not all, of the Louvre’s paintings on display and made me wonder how I had seen so much more on previous visits. I don’t know a better strategy, but there must be one. I started with the Flemish and Dutch schools […]

Paris Museums

The Musee du Quai Branly – what a hodgepodge! In a stab at the ‘new museum,’ galleries have been eliminated, and the visitor is expected to flow through continents, like some Nile-Amazon combination. Then, what impresses is not quality, but quantity. Instead of one great Kota reliquary figure, we find eleven lined up in a […]

Musee d’Orsay

We saw the light and dark of European 19th century art at the Musee d’Orsay: the world’s leading collection of Impressionism in the 5th floor permanent galleries and a special exhibition on the ground floor of “Dark Romanticism,” called, infelicitously from Poe, “The Angel of the Odd.” The latter featured art “that used terrifying and […]

American Art in Winona

Winona collectors Mary Burrichter and Bob Kierlin have done in Winona exactly what I’ve been trying to get the MIA to do in Minneapolis for 15 years: build a representative collection of 19th-century American landscape painting. Moreover, they’ve done it in less than 10 years and built a beautifully sited museum on the Mississippi River […]

Up-to-Date in KC

Whenever I go to a comparably sized city, I inevitably end up comparing their art collection to the MIA’s, and this thought was never far from my mind as I toured Kansas City’s Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art last Wednesday (10/10/12). My investigation was neither deep nor complete, as there were whole parts of the collection […]

Oh, Canada & Globalization

MassMOCA is featuring an exhibition of new Canadian artists which, while not purporting to define an entire country, does give an idea of current artistic sensibility north of the border. I had a marvelous time and, looking back, was struck by the fact that six of my favorite seven pieces had moving parts. (I didn’t […]

The Best Non-Rembrandts

The MIA’s “Rembrandt in America” featured, by approximate count, 50 paintings – 25 by Rembrandt, 25 not so much. The spectrum ran from two authentically great works – the MIA’s own Lucretia and the Self-Portrait from Washington – to two sad pastiches – the Young Woman from Allentown and the Ringling’s Lamentation. Everything else fell […]

Rembrandt in America

Rembrandt van Rijn painted great works of art from 1628 to 1669. There wasn’t much art collecting in the United States in those years – of course, there wasn’t even a United States. The first Rembrandt painting came to America probably in 1884, more than 200 years after Rembrandt died. So it is not surprising […]

Rembrandt’s Hands

In honor of the visit by Rembrandt’s Self-Portrait from Kenwood House in London, the Metropolitan Museum in New York has hung a large gallery (614) almost entirely with large portraits by Rembrandt and his followers or workshop (the latter all indubitably purchased by American collectors and donated to the Met as actual “Rembrandts,” only to […]